Immerse yourself in Prague's fascinating Jewish history
Visiting Prague means admiring the Charles Bridge, the Castle and Old Town Square. But for lovers of history and heritage, the Jewish Quarter, known as Josefov, is a real gem. Located in the heart of the Czech capital, it tells the tumultuous story of the Jewish community through the centuries. At the center of this district, the clock of the former Jewish Town Hall, with its Hebrew numerals, is a fascinating symbol.
Here’s a complete guide to exploring its historic sites, legends and practical secrets.
History of Josefov: from the medieval ghetto to the present day
12th to 15th centuries: the formation of the ghetto
As early as the 12th century, Josefov is mentioned as an isolated Jewish quarter. Forced to live within a defined area, Jews were grouped together behind walls that separated them from the rest of the population. This medieval ghetto featured narrow streets, crowded houses and often precarious living conditions. Despite these difficulties, the district prospered thanks to its scholars, merchants and craftsmen.
16th and 17th centuries: Josefov's golden age
During the Renaissance, the neighborhood flourished thanks to influential figures such as Mordechai Maisel, a wealthy philanthropist and ghetto ediot. Major buildings were constructed during this period, including the Maisel Synagogue and the Upper Synagogue. Josefov became a cultural and spiritual center for the Jewish community in Bohemia.
18th century: Joseph II's reforms
With Emperor Joseph II’s Edict of Toleration in 1781, many of the restrictions imposed on Jews were lifted. These reforms marked the beginning of the opening up of the Jewish community to the rest of Prague society. The ghetto was renamed “Josefov” in honor of the emperor, symbolizing a new era of tolerance.
19th century: urban transformation
The 19th century was a period of upheaval. Under the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Josefov underwent a vast modernization program to eliminate the unsanitary conditions of the ghetto. Many old houses were demolished to make way for larger buildings and streets, often in the Art Nouveau style. This transformation enabled the district to become fully integrated into the city of Prague, but it also erased part of its historical heritage.
20th century: the shadow of Shoah
The 20th century was marked by the dark hours of the Holocaust. Under Nazi occupation, Prague’s Jewish community was devastated. Josefov was emptied of its inhabitants, and much of its heritage was damaged. However, some buildings, such as the synagogues and the Jewish cemetery, were preserved, often because the Nazis wanted to turn them into a “museum of an extinct race”.
Today: a memorial district
In today’s Josefov, Jewish heritage is the center of attention. The synagogues, Jewish cemetery and Jewish museum attract visitors from all over the world. The district has become a place of memory and reflection, while remaining an example of integration between tradition and modernity. Today, Josefov is a symbol of resilience and cultural richness in the heart of Prague.
Josefov's must-see synagogues
The Old New Synagogue: a witness to time
The Old-New Synagogue (Staronová synagoga) is one of Josefov’s oldest buildings. Built in the 13th century, it is still in use today, making it the oldest synagogue in Europe in continuous use. Its Gothic architecture is impressive, and the sober yet historic interior is an invitation to meditation. According to local legend, the stones used in its construction were brought here by angels. The building is therefore a place where history and spirituality meet, offering visitors a unique experience.
The Spanish synagogue: a Moorish jewel
In a completely different style, the Spanish synagogue (Spanělská synagoga) marvels at its Moorish architecture and refined decorative details. Inaugurated in 1868, it takes its name from the Sephardic Jews who settled here from Spain. The interior, richly decorated with gilded and colored motifs, is a feast for the eyes.
Pinkas synagogue: a moving memorial
The Pinkas synagogue (Pinkasova synagoga) plays a different but equally significant role. Today, it is a memorial to the victims of the Holocaust. Its walls bear the names of the 80,000 Czech Jews exterminated during the Second World War. This sober and moving place invites reflection and remembrance.
Maisel synagogue: a place of Jewish history
Built in 1592 by Mordechai Maisel, one of the influential leaders of Prague’s Jewish community, the Maisel Synagogue (Maiselova synagoga) is today an important part of the Jewish Museum. It tells the story of the evolution of the Jewish community through exhibitions of historical and religious artifacts. Renaissance architecture combined with modern exhibits make this an essential visit for history buffs.
Klaus synagogue: a glimpse into religious life
The Klaus synagogue (Klausová synagoga) owes its name to the three small buildings (“klausen” in German) that once stood on the site. Built in 1694, it now houses collections illustrating the traditions and rituals of Jewish life. You’ll find ancient manuscripts, liturgical objects and explanations of religious practices.
The Upper Synagogue: a secret but fascinating place
Less well known but just as interesting, the Upper Synagogue (Vysoká synagoga) was historically reserved for members of Prague’s Jewish council. Built in the 16th century, it is located right next to the former Jewish Town Hall. Today, it is part of the Jewish Museum and displays precious liturgical objects, testimony to the importance of community life.
The old Jewish cemetery: a unique place in the world
Prague’s Old Jewish Cemetery, established in the 15th century, is one of Josefov’s most emblematic and mystical sites. Home to some 12,000 visible tombstones, the cemetery is in fact the final resting place for almost 100,000 people. Faced with a shortage of space, the graves were stacked in layers, sometimes up to twelve high. This apparent chaos of tilted and piled stones lends the site a unique aura, where history seems to rise with each stone.
A journey through time
Each tombstone tells a story, engraved with symbols and epitaphs in Hebrew. The inscriptions and ornamental motifs reflect the professions or qualities of the deceased. The engravings of lions, stars or crowns symbolize prestigious lineages or values respected within the Jewish community. This silent stroll among the stones invites a deep reflection on past centuries and the lives that have passed through them.
Rabbi Löw's grave: a place of pilgrimage
Among the most famous tombs, that of Rabbi Judah Loew ben Bezalel, known as Rabbi Löw, attracts visitors from all over the world. This famous 16th-century scholar and mystic is the legendary creator of the Golem, a clay creature supposedly brought to life to protect the Jewish community. His tomb is a place of contemplation and prayer. According to tradition, visitors leave small pieces of paper (kvitlach) there containing their wishes or spiritual requests.
Preserving memory
Despite the devastation suffered during the Holocaust, the Old Cemetery has been preserved as a unique testimony to Jewish history in Central Europe. Today, it is part of the Jewish Museum in Prague and is an essential stop for understanding the heritage of the Teš Jewish community. A well-planned itinerary will allow you to visit this place while respecting its spiritual and historical significance.
To visit this cemetery is to explore a sanctuary where the past continues to dialogue with the present, a place where memory is inscribed in stone and in collective memory.
Visiting the Old Jewish Cemetery in Prague is an unforgettable experience. Created in the 15th century, this place houses nearly 12,000 visible graves, although it is estimated that 100,000 people are buried here. Due to lack of space, the graves were stacked in several layers over the centuries, creating a chaotic but mystical landscape.
Among the remarkable graves, that of Rabbi Löw is particularly famous. A mystical figure and supposed creator of the Golem, he continues to attract many visitors fascinated by his legend.
The Prague Jewish Museum: a treasure trove of knowledge
The Jewish Museum in Prague is a unique institution that preserves and presents the cultural and historical heritage of the Jewish communities of Bohemia and Moravia. Founded in 1906, it is spread across several sites in the Josefov district, each providing a unique perspective on Jewish history.
A unique collection in the world
The museum houses one of the largest collections of Jewish artifacts in Europe. It contains ancient manuscripts, liturgical objects, embroidered textiles, and even everyday objects that bear witness to Jewish life through the centuries. These pieces, often collected during World War II to create a “museum of a vanished race” by the Nazis, are invaluable today for understanding and transmitting history.
A dive into history
Each site in the museum reveals a different aspect of Jewish history. The Maisel Synagogue, for example, displays artifacts from Josefov’s golden age and explains the evolution of Jewish communities in Bohemia and Moravia. The Pinkas Synagogue, meanwhile, has become a moving memorial with the names of the 80,000 Czech Jews who were victims of the Holocaust inscribed on its walls.
Focus on Terezín
A special area of the museum is dedicated to the children deported to the Terezín ghetto. This poignant exhibition presents their drawings and writings, which offer an innocent yet profound look at the horrors of the Holocaust. These works, saved from oblivion, are a powerful testimony of resilience and hope.
Where to eat in Josefov?
After an emotional visit, this district is full of options for a gourmet break, whether it’s Jewish specialties or other must-try flavors of Prague. Here are some suggestions to treat yourself:
Kosher Restaurants and Jewish Cuisine
- King Solomon Kosher Restaurant: Located in the neighborhood, this restaurant offers authentic kosher dishes like gefilte fish, cholent, or traditional Jewish desserts. Perfect for those who wish to follow kosher dietary laws.
- Dinitz Kosher Restaurant: Another great choice for a kosher dining experience, with traditional flavors in a modern setting.
Other addresses nearby
- Field Restaurant: This nearby Michelin-starred restaurant offers inventive and refined European cuisine for a memorable (non-kosher) dining experience.
- Lokál Dlouhááá: Ideal for an authentic Czech experience. Enjoy typical dishes like svíčková (marinated beef) or goulash, accompanied by a local beer.
Cafes for a relaxing break
- Café Franz Kafka: Located nearby, this cozy café is a tribute to the famous Prague writer. Enjoy a warm atmosphere while tasting good coffee and pastries.
- EMA Espresso Bar: Ideal for lovers of quality coffee, this modern place is perfect for a quick break between two visits.
Practical tips for visiting Josefov
To make the most of your visit, plan a full day to explore Josefov. Here is some practical information to help you plan your itinerary:
- Opening hours and days: The sites in the Josefov district, including the synagogues and the Jewish Museum, are generally open every day except Saturday (Shabbat) and Jewish holidays. Hours vary depending on the season, but most sites are open from 9am to 6pm from April to October, and from 9am to 4:30pm from November to March.
- Package and combo tickets: To maximize your visit, opt for the Prague Jewish Museum combo ticket. This ticket includes access to several iconic sites: the Old-New Synagogue, Pinkas Synagogue, Klaus Synagogue, Maisel Synagogue, Upper Synagogue, Old Jewish Cemetery, and exhibits at the Jewish Museum. Discounts apply for children, students, and families.
- Recommended itinerary: Start at the Old-New Synagogue, continue to the Jewish Museum, and end at the Old Cemetery for a chronological and immersive experience.
- Tips: Arrive early to avoid crowds, especially in peak season, and wear comfortable shoes for walking the neighborhood’s cobblestone streets.
For an in-depth and engaging exploration, consider hiring a Prague tour guide, who will enrich your visit with valuable anecdotes and historical details.
