FRANCE
EUROPE
AFRICA
MIDDLE EAST
NORTH AMERICA
SOUTH AMERICA
ASIA
CARIBBEAN
OCEANIA
Valparaíso isn’t a city you visit. It’s one you cross, one you guess at. Once a major port on the route around Cape Horn, it saw the world pass through. Then the Panama Canal redrew the map, and Valpo, as it’s called here, drifted into sleep. For a long time.
But the city refused to fade. Since 2003, part of it has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. That woke something up—an energy, a need to tell its story.
Valparaíso stretches across 45 hills. Not one catches the light the same way. Streets climb, drop, stop without warning. Everything looks to the sea, though not always straight on. The walls speak—paint, anger, hope. Here, Street Art isn’t decoration. It’s memory. And sometimes laughter, to keep from bending.
Top 5 Guided Tours
Places to Visit
Starting at the port, in El Plan, you feel the city on flat ground—cobblestones glistening after drizzle, trolleybuses creaking, faded facades. A walking tour takes its own pace here, unhurried.
Then the climb begins: narrow lanes, stairways, open workshops. Funiculars lend a hand when your legs protest. You reach Cerro Concepción, with its tiles, church towers, and glimpses of ocean between rooftops.
Further on, Cerro Alegre strings together painted walls, tiny cafés, balconies that groan a little. Your eye jumps from a mural to an old enamel sign. Funiculars pass by—slow, steady, essential.
Descending on the Ascensor El Peral closes the loop, with the bay in full view and your breath regained. Walk on toward Sotomayor, the port lined ahead. A walking tour of Valparaíso unfolds like this—in small, vivid scenes.
In Valparaíso, Cerro Polanco sits a little apart—and that suits it. Narrow streets, laundry in the breeze, steps that test your legs. You climb for the street art, and for the strange calm between painted walls.
The Polanco funicular, running vertically, starts through a cool tunnel before shooting straight up into the hill. Wood rattles, metal clatters, the cabin feels tiny. Then the door opens, and the bay spreads out—suddenly simpler.
At the top, murals stack one over another, some fresh, others peeling. Faces, slogans, colors laid directly onto concrete. A walking tour shapes itself, stairway after stairway.
At the Atelier Graff, there’s no long lecture, just a guiding eye and a hand encouraging yours. You try a line, miss it, try again. You leave with a small mark of your own, and the sense you’ve understood the city a little better.
For a proper ceviche, the day begins at Portales. Fish still glistening, vendors calling out, the smell of seaweed in the air. You pick merluza, sometimes reineta, and the dish starts to take shape.
Next stop: El Cardonal market. Heavy lemons, crisp onions, herbs that cling to your fingers. The bags weigh a little, the colors even more. The rest will come down to the knife.
On a terrace in Cerro Alegre, a chef shows the way without speeches. Slice fine, squeeze, adjust the salt. The ceviche comes together—clean, simple—while a Pisco waits nearby.
Then comes the Pisco Sour: egg white foaming, lemon biting sharp. Two ice cubes, a shake, the glass beading. The bay lights up slowly, and the tasting falls into Valparaíso’s rhythm.
To explore beyond Valparaíso, you need to drift a little farther. Northward, Concón and Horcón keep the scent of the port alive—sea lions on the docks, nets drying in the sun. Follow the rocks, the spray hits now and then.
Further up, Zapallar hides a quiet bay, pale houses, a coastal path that curves gently. You sit for a while, a basket of sopaipillas in hand, the steady sound of the waves. Nothing grand, just your gaze unwinding.
Southward, Isla Negra opens Neruda’s door—memories everywhere, wood, glass, objects useful or not. The sea pounds hard, the house stares straight at the ocean. You whisper without knowing why, it fits the place.
Inland, the Casablanca Valley pours crisp whites, a touch of Pinot Noir, dry light across the vineyards. Two wineries, no more, enough for a simple tasting. Return to Valparaíso as the bay begins to glow.
The micro “O” climbs and follows Avenida Alemania, suspended above the hills. On one side, the bay, on the other, the stacked city with twisted cables and façades. On clear days, a pale line far off—the Andes.
On Cerro Concepción, footsteps lead to Paseo Gervasoni and Mirador Atkinson. Benches, railings weathered by salt, paintings snapping in the wind. Minutes slip by, watching rooftops tumble toward the port.
Higher up in Artillería, Paseo 21 de Mayo spreads wide—ships, cranes, terraces of hills. The slow, practical Ascensor Artillería gets you there. A mote con huesillo in hand, two sweet sips, your gaze drifts again.
From the water, the views shift once more. A boat from Muelle Prat sets the city at a distance, flattening the hills, making façades echo. You return with the roll of the tide, the image of Valparaíso sharper.