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Valparaíso isn’t a city you simply visit. You cross it. You sense it. Once a major port on the Cape Horn route, it saw the world pass by. Then the Panama Canal redrew the map, and Valpo—as the locals call it—fell into a long sleep.
But the city didn’t give up. Since 2003, part of it has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. That woke something up—an energy, a need to tell its story.
Valparaíso spreads over 45 hills, each with its own light. The streets climb, drop, stop without warning. Everything leads to the sea, but not always straight. The walls speak—paint, anger, hope. Street art here isn’t decoration. It’s memory. And sometimes laughter, just to keep from bending.
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Starting at the port, in El Plan, you feel the city on level ground—cobblestones glistening after the drizzle. Trolleybuses creak past, facades faded by time. A walking tour finds its own slow rhythm here.
Then the climb begins—narrow lanes, staircases, open workshops. The funiculars come to the rescue when your legs start to complain. You reach Cerro Concepción, with its tiled facades, church steeples, and glimpses of ocean between rooftops.
Farther on, Cerro Alegre stretches out its painted walls, tiny cafés, and balconies that groan just a little. Your eye jumps from a mural to an old enamel sign. The funiculars pass by—slow, steady, essential.
Descending with the Ascensor El Peral closes the loop, the bay opening before you, breath caught again. Keep walking toward Sotomayor, the port straight ahead. A walk through Valparaíso is told this way, in small scenes.
In Valparaíso, Cerro Polanco sits slightly apart—and it suits the place. Narrow streets, laundry fluttering in the wind, steps that pull at your legs. You climb for the street art, and for the strange quiet that hangs between painted walls.
The Polanco funicular, completely vertical, first runs through a cool tunnel before shooting straight up into the hill. The wood shudders, the metal clatters, the cabin tiny. The door opens, and suddenly the bay feels closer, simpler.
At the top, the murals pile one over another—some fresh, some peeling. Faces, slogans, colors laid straight on the concrete. The walk maps itself out, stairway after stairway.
At Atelier Graff, there’s no long theory—just a watchful eye and a hand daring to try. You make a line, miss, try again. You leave with a small mark of your own and the feeling that you’ve understood the city a little better.
For the perfect ceviche, the day starts at Portales. Fish still shining, vendors calling out, the smell of seaweed in the air. You pick the merluza, sometimes the reineta, and the idea of the dish begins to form.
Then it’s off to El Cardonal Market—heavy lemons, crisp onions, herbs clinging to your fingers. The bags weigh a little, the colors do too. The rest will be decided by the knife.
On a terrace in Cerro Alegre, a chef demonstrates without words. Slice thin, squeeze, adjust the salt. The ceviche comes together—clean, simple—while a Pisco waits nearby.
Then comes the Pisco Sour, egg white foaming, lemon biting just enough. Two ice cubes, a shake, the glass starts to bead. The bay slowly lights up, and the tasting falls into Valparaíso’s rhythm.
To explore the surroundings of Valparaíso, you have to go a little further. To the north, Concón and Horcón still smell of the port—sea lions on the docks, nets drying in the sun. Follow the rocks and you’ll catch a splash or two.
Farther up, Zapallar hides a quiet bay with pale houses and a coastal trail that winds along the shore. You sit for a while, a basket of sopaipillas in hand, listening to the steady sound of the waves. Nothing grand, just your eyes relaxing.
To the south, Isla Negra opens the door to Neruda’s world—wood, glass, objects useful and not, memories everywhere. The sea pounds hard, the house stares straight at the ocean. You whisper for no reason; it feels right here.
Inland, the Casablanca Valley pours crisp whites, a little pinot noir, sunlight dry over the vines. Two wineries, no more, just enough time for a simple tasting. Back to Valparaíso as the bay begins to glow.
The “O” microbus climbs and winds along Avenida Alemania, perched above the hills. On one side, the bay; on the other, the stacked city—twisted facades and dangling cables. On a clear day, a pale line on the horizon reveals the Andes.
On Cerro Concepción, your steps lead to Paseo Gervasoni and then Mirador Atkinson. Benches, salt-stained railings, murals snapping in the wind. You let the minutes slip by, watching the rooftops tumble toward the port.
High on Artillería Hill, Paseo 21 de Mayo opens a sweeping panorama—ships, cranes, hills in terraces. You reach it by the Artillería funicular—slow but essential. A vendor hands you a mote con huesillo, two sweet gulps, and your gaze travels on.
From the water, the views shift again. A boat from Muelle Prat puts the city at a distance, flattening the hills, letting the facades echo each other. You return to the port with the gentle roll of the waves, Valparaíso’s image sharper in your mind.