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In southern Italy, Naples rises facing the sea, nestled against a vast bay dominated by Vesuvius. Scattered across the horizon lie Capri, Ischia, and Procida, islands that set the rhythm of the view.
The narrow streets of the historic center reveal a Naples full of contrasts — lively, noisy, irresistible — where Neapolitan pizza is savored just as happily at a neighborhood trattoria as on a busy street corner. Climbing up to Castel Sant’Elmo gives you a sweeping view of the bay, its colors shifting hour by hour, a scene that never repeats itself quite the same way.
The surroundings deepen the experience. At Pompeii, the past rises almost intact, frozen by volcanic ash. Farther along, the Amalfi Coast unfolds with cliffs plunging into the sea. Naples draws visitors as much for its warm chaos as for the horizons it opens — a city to be lived more than described.
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In the very heart of the city, Piazza del Plebiscito opens up like a breath of air amid Naples’ narrow streets. Vast, calm, and entirely pedestrian, it feels as though time slows down here. Its name recalls a key moment in history: the plebiscite of October 21, 1860, which united Sicily with the Kingdom of Italy.
All around, imposing buildings tell the story of different eras:
– The Palazzo Salerno, dating from the 18th century, stands on the site of a former convent.
– The Palazzo della Foresteria, built in the 19th century to host the city’s prestigious guests, now houses the prefecture.
– The Basilica of San Francesco di Paola, with its columned façade reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome, impresses with its austere beauty.
– The Royal Palace, once home to kings, is now a museum that has lost none of its grandeur.
It’s impossible to walk past Galleria Umberto I without looking up. This covered arcade, built between 1887 and 1891, is much more than a shopping gallery — it’s a piece of Naples itself, blending art and light.
Located just across from the San Carlo Theatre and close to Via Toledo, it was designed as an elegant gathering place after the devastation of the cholera epidemic. Its architecture combines Italian finesse with inspiration from the great Parisian arcades. The 57-meter-high glass dome catches the light and spreads it throughout.
The marble floor, decorated with geometric patterns, makes you feel as though you’re walking across a painting. All around, shops, cafés, and a mix of old and new window displays tell the story of a city that never stops reinventing itself.
Built on the former islet of Megaride, now connected to the shore, Castel dell’Ovo carries an air of mystery. Its name comes from a legend: the poet Virgil is said to have hidden a magical egg here, a charm meant to keep the fortress standing as long as it remained unbroken.
This site, inhabited since antiquity, first welcomed Greek settlers in the 7th century BC. Fortress, then monastery, then royal residence, the castle has gone through many transformations. The current version, with its round towers and austere lines, dates back to the 15th century under Peter I of Aragon.
Right next door, Borgo Marinari lines up its pastel façades and lively terraces overlooking the boats. The contrast between the silent mass of the castle and the bustling harbor is striking.
Inside, the emptiness is what strikes you — no furniture, few objects. Yet it’s the walls, the views, the rusted cannons that speak. The panorama over Vesuvius and the bay is breathtaking.
Just half an hour from Naples, the frozen city of Pompeii captivates everyone who sets foot there. On October 24, 79 AD, Vesuvius buried it under ash. The result: astonishingly well-preserved ruins, a city stopped in time.
Walking its streets, you come close to touching the daily life of a Roman city. Some figures, frozen mid-flight, make the experience especially striking. A passionate guide can truly elevate the visit and help you dive into that vanished era.
Highlights include:
– The forum’s basilica, once the political and commercial center.
– The Temple of Apollo, with its columns and statues.
– The Forum Baths, where Romans bathed and gathered.
– The Villa of the Mysteries, famous for its vivid interior frescoes.
– The Bakery of Modestus with its ancient ovens.
– The House of Venus and its seashell fresco.
– The Grand Theatre, witness to the entertainments of the time.
And if you’re a hiker at heart, climb to the top of Vesuvius. The trail, about a 30-minute walk, crosses a lunar landscape of black lava and eerie silence. At the summit, 1,280 meters high, the view over the Bay of Naples is breathtaking. A few wisps of smoke remind you that the volcano is only lightly sleeping.
Among the islands off Naples, Procida is a little hidden treasure. Less famous than Capri, quieter than Ischia, it charms with its simplicity and authenticity. In barely 4 km², it offers a perfect slice of island Italy.
You explore it on foot, at a slow pace. The streets climb and dip, lined with pastel houses and laundry swaying in the breeze. At Marina Corricella, the fishing harbor looks like something out of a film. The stairway to Spiaggia Chiaia leads to a quiet beach, perfect for a swim.
Some of its most typical spots:
• Terra Murata, perched on the cliff, keeps its medieval feel with narrow, shaded lanes.
• Marina Grande and Corricella are pure postcard scenes, with blue fishing boats and façades painted in pink, yellow, and orange.
The beaches are small — and that’s their charm: secluded coves, black sand, little caves. Pozzo Vecchio, shaped like a bay, is the most famous.
To the southwest, Vivara Islet, linked by a bridge, holds a beautiful surprise: once a trading outpost 3,000 years ago, it is now a protected reserve where rare orchids bloom and migratory birds nest. A fragile, stunning haven.