FRANCE
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MIDDLE EAST
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With a local guide, you don’t really explore Mauritania. You let it unfold. Slowly. The sand, the wind. And that silence. Every place holds something ancient, beyond words. But you feel it.
In Nouakchott, the fish market starts before sunrise. Baskets pass, voices rise, the scent of iodine clings. Then comes evening. On the port terraces, the light lingers low, skimming everything. It stretches, then fades. Further inland, Terjit. The oasis doesn’t announce itself. It just appears. Water flows between rocks, palm trees part. You settle in without knowing why.
Then Chinguetti. Sand, worn walls, narrow alleys. Everything feels quiet. The “city of seven mosques” doesn’t try to impress. It holds. Behind doors, manuscripts. Fragile, passed down by knowing hands. The pages still whisper of journeys, of deserts crossed, of knowledge carried.
To the north, Ouadane. Stones still standing. They don’t explain, but you understand. Empires—gone, not erased. And at the edge of it all, where the land gives way, the Banc d'Arguin National Park. Thousands of birds. They come, circle, land. There’s nothing to do. You watch. For a while.
In the Adrar region of northern Mauritania, not far from Atar, the Terjit Nature Reserve hides in plain sight — an oasis that doesn’t try to impress, yet stays with you. Water flows where it shouldn’t, palms grow in the dust. The Sahara makes room.
Step into the grove, and the air changes. Cooler. Still. The hot rock gives way to trickling springs. You slip into the water beneath the palms, and for a while, there’s no desert. Just birds calling out and the hush of water against stone.
Further on, paths curve through sandstone, shaped by time, not tools. The Timinit gorges, close by, cut through the land, while the Adrar Plateau rises in silence. A place that unfolds if you take your time.
Mauritania’s capital, Nouakchott, stretches between desert wind and ocean air. It doesn’t show everything at once. You have to walk it — get lost a little — to feel what moves underneath. Here are five stops worth slowing down for.
The Fish Market – Where the morning begins. Baskets, voices, salt on your hands. The kind of place that wakes you up.
The Saudi Mosque – White domes, quiet courtyards. Step inside, and the city fades behind you.
The Fishing Port – At the edge of the capital, old wooden boats rock beside newer vessels. The sea is work here, not decoration.
The National Museum – A pause. Artifacts, fragments of story. Silver, script, worn leather. Nothing flashy — just what was kept.
Nouakchott Beach – Not built up. Still raw. The breeze carries sand. At sunset, the light falls flat and warm across the water.
Between Nouakchott and Nouadhibou, where the dunes meet the sea, lies Banc d’Arguin. A park, yes — but more than that, a stretch of land and water that hasn’t been asked to change. Wind, sand, and sky blur together.
Birds gather here. Thousands of them. Flamingos, terns, pelicans. They come and go, never rushed. The best way to watch is from a pirogue — quiet, low to the water — with the Imraguen fishermen. They don’t speak much. They’ve learned from the sea.
On Tidra Island, or Niroumi, the beaches hold nothing but windprints. No buildings. No sound, unless it’s the waves. The edge of the Sahara doesn’t end here. It just floats into blue.
In the Adrar sands, 600 kilometers from Nouakchott, Chinguetti waits. Not hidden — just still. The stones hold warmth, and something older than dates and names. You walk in, and the noise stops.
The Al-Atiq Mosque stands quiet, its square minaret watching over the town. It doesn’t shine. It breathes. At dusk, the light clings to its walls — as if the desert didn’t want to let go.
In the Habott Library, hands turn brittle pages. Scripts that speak of stars, trade routes, medicine. Things once carried by caravan, now whispered from shelf to shelf.
Outside, the Erg Ouarane rolls into distance. Sand moving under the wind. And under a tent, a mint-scented tea, a story half-told. Not all places offer answers. Some, like Chinguetti, just give you silence — and time.
The Road of Hope — over 1,100 kilometers. From Nouakchott to Néma. It doesn’t rush. It winds, vanishes, reappears. Dust on the windshield. A line drawn across the desert.
Near Aleg, a lake appears. Blue against brown. Just for a moment. Then it’s gone again. Further east, Kiffa. People carving, shaping glass beads. Hands moving with memory.
As you continue, the emptiness grows. But it doesn’t feel empty. It breathes differently. At Ayoun el-Atrous, the savanna begins to speak. Tents scattered along the horizon. Goats, smoke, wind.
And finally Néma. Last town before the border. The end, maybe. Or the beginning of something else.
Nouakchott
Arabic (Hassaniya), French widely spoken
1,030,700 km²
November 28
Approximately 4.7 million
Ouguiya (MRU)
GMT (UTC+0)
Desert, hot and dry
+222
220 V, Type C
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